Pismo Beach
Let’s see, where was I? Oh yes, I had just left Santa Barbara. I went on up Highway 101 to the picturesque seaside town of Pismo Beach.
Let me say that, until this trip, I had never gone camping by myself before. My mother had always handled these things as I was growing up, and as an adult I’d never particularly wanted to camp. I like being in nature, but the camping part of camping — pitching a tent, sleeping on the ground, and worst of all, having no plumbing — had never particularly appealed to me. But I knew that traveling for three months on no income could get awfully expensive, so I called upon the PMC network and borrowed or bought the equipment, up to and including the tent.
The tent was loaned to me by a man approaching middle age, who had used it years earlier on his bicycle trip to Alaska. (Such jockitude is remarkably common at PMC, as bookish as everyone is.) When he’d first offered it to me, he was careful to set low expectations for it, saying, “Well, it’s a tent. It’ll keep the rain off.”
When I first left L.A. I stopped by his house and picked it up. He wasn’t there, but his wife was, and she attempted to show me how to put it together. Except it had been so long since she’d done it that she couldn’t really remember, and her five-year-old son was “helping,” which only made things more confusing. I was filled with dread when I tried to pitch it at Carpenteria Beach, but somehow it went up quite easily. It was a sort of modified umbrella design, with two curved rods crossing over the top and two supporting rods that bowed out sideways. I only put in three of them, but it seemed like enough to hold up the tent, so I slept in it peacefully enough, given the trains and all.
So I was pretty confident when I got to Pismo Beach. Although my first problem was finding the campground. Unlike in Carpenteria, there were a number of them to choose from, in varying degrees of development, and some were already full. But eventually I found one, which I think was also in a state park, separated from the beach by a row of trees. It was also pretty busy, and I felt a bit self-conscious walking by the other campers in my Starbucks-in-Santa-Barbara outfit. But I found a bare site, looking rather open and exposed but habitable enough.
I decided that since the first raising of the tent was so easy, I’d try to do it the proper way, which was to put in all four rods as it lay flat and then pop it up. That was how the tent’s owner had done it, his wife told me; he could get it up in five minutes. So I figured I should be able to do that, and as usual, pride goeth before a fall.
I got lost in the confusion of sleeves that ran across the tent, and had to pull rods out and try again. It grew darker. My wrist started to itch. I realized mosquitoes were buzzing all around me, and that patch of thick grass behind the campsite must be swamp. Perhaps that was why no one had claimed my spot before. And then I heard a train rumble by. After the previous night I had sworn that I would not camp next to railroad tracks ever again, but here they were deviously hidden by trees.
It kept getting darker, and harder to see what I was doing. I did not have the means to light a fire. And so, with a mounting sense of humiliation, I forfeited the $20 entrance fee, gathered up the tent (I would not realize until much later that I’d left a rod behind) and headed into town to look for a motel.
I was still conscious of cost, so I sought out a slightly run-down motel that was off the main road, with the requisite Indian guy manning the counter. I asked him if he had a room available, and he asked me how many people were in my party.
“It’s just me,” I said.
He gave me the strangest expression, which I’ll never forget. He stared at me and drew back slightly, looking shocked and almost … disgusted. As if I’d put in a special request to stock it with wall chains and Vaseline. But he recovered himself and checked his computer, and told me all he had left was a room with two beds for $85.
That’s about as cheap as it gets in these California tourist towns, so I told him I’d take it. He asked me if I wanted to see the room first.
I hadn’t expected that question. (It’s not unusual with cheap motels, as it turned out.) “Um… sure.”
“I’ll meet you there,” he said, and disappeared out the back door.
I was getting freaked. Why was he acting so strangely? What had I done wrong? And for the second time that evening, I fled the scene. I jumped into my car and drove off without meeting him, which turned out to be just as well because I was illegally parked.
I found another motel, this one rather nicer actually, for the same price. I lay down on the bed and tried to reassure myself that this whole comedy of errors didn’t mean that I was a total idiot. I was just learning, I told myself. You make these mistakes, you pay the money, and that way you learn not to do it again.
This came to be a theme on the road, as much as anything else. By leaving my routine life I was in some ways liberated, but I was also leaving my field of competency. I had come to L.A. as a northern Californian, a business reporter who didn’t know anything about business, and later a churchgoer who didn’t know anything about church. But after nine years, I had earned a certain seniority, not a high station in life but respectable enough. Now — I saw clearly for the first time — all that was gone. I was back to the beginning, learning everything anew.
It occurred to me that this might be harder than I thought.